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Door and Window Channel
Assembly Procedures for '53-61 Coupe-bodies
Purpose: To
assemble a complete door and install weatherstrip and window channels
for '53-'61 Coupes and Hawks. (C-body only)
1) Replacing the front window run rigid channel:
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Remove the brackets from the old channel by
drilling out the rivets using a 1/8" drill bit. Remove the brackets
and any remnants of the old rivets.
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I prefer to spot-weld the old mounting
brackets onto the new window channel. This makes it very easy and
there are no rivet heads to interfere with the window glass.
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If you would prefer to rivet the channel to the
brackets, use the old window run as a pattern to drill the new
holes then "recess" the holes from the fuzzy side with a blunt
punch. Once you pop-rivet the brackets to the new rigid channel,
you will need to peen down the rivet heads inside the run where the
door glass runs, this will prevent the glass from hitting the rivet
heads. The original run had the recess for the rivet head for this
reason. If you can find a rivet setting tool and brass rivets
those would be better.
2) Replacing the vent window rubber and
reinstalling the vent window glass:
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Take your new vent window rubber and clean it in a
5-gallon bucket filled with with Hot Soapy water. Then dry and
re-clean with a strong solvent like denatured alcohol or lacquer
thinner. This will remove any "release agent" left from the molding
process.
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Install the new rubber into the old vent-window
frame. I find it easiest to lubricate the rubber with dishwashing
liquid and keep a spray bottle of plain water handy. I start at
the inside lower corner and work the rubber into the channel at the
sharp bend near the lower pivot. I work the bottom first and make
sure the holes for the window frame "pivot post" and the hole for
the small mounting screw are aligned. Then I work my way up to the
top and be sure to align the slot with the upper vent window pivot.
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For the front stainless run attached to the window
glass itself, I use self-stick weatherstrip "fuzzy" (1/4") for
household use. This can be found in the door and hardware section
of your building supply dealer. It is generally used to prevent
drafts in windows and doors. The original peel-off tape strip will
not hold the piece in for long, so I glue it with 3M Superfast
Urethane. I use 2 pieces to make the "L" shape.
3) Window installation:
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Carefully insert door glass into the door and
leave it inside the door at the bottom. Use some foam to hold it
against the outer door skin (to make working room). Install window
regulator through access hole and securely mount it in place (4
machine screws with integral star-washers use sealer around the
heads after install). Use the window crank to lower the regulator
so the "posts" that go through the window's lower run are just
above the access opening.
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Insert the vent window assembly into the door and
temporarily install the lower machine screws (very loosely) just to
semi-hold it in place. The upper part of the vent window can be
screwed securely in place (3 screws that go through upper door
frame and one screw just in front of the vent's latch). Look
inside the upper door opening, you will see metal tabs that create
the channel that the window run slides into. It is not completely
solid, as there are gaps between the metal. Use masking tape to
mark the middle of 3 of the pieces at the top and the lowest piece
at the rear of the opening. (more on this later)
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Once the vent window run is in place, install the
glass in the track at the REAR first and then into the rigid
channel of the vent window run. With the screws loose, you should
have enough room to wiggle it in. Attach the window glass to the
window regulator with the special washers and horseshoe clips.
4) Installing the Window Channel:
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If you are using straight flexible window channel
with the stainless steel beads, cut it approximately the same
length as the original (or slightly longer). Place the channel
parallel to the top of the door and approximate where the curve
will be. Bend the channel in a VERY slow arch to about 45 degrees
(do NOT bend it 90 degrees). You will notice that the black channel
will actually "slide" inside the stainless beading. Slide it into
the track at the rear of the window opening (parallel to the rear
of the door) and all the way down to the bottom, AS FAR PAST the
window glass (still in the rear track) as possible. The window
glass should be in the new fuzzy track/channel.
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With heavy pliers, crimp/smash 1/4" of the exposed
ends of the stainless channel making sure you catch the black felt
covered channel in the crimp. This will prevent the channel from
sliding backward inside the stainless beads as you begin bending it
into place. Trim off any excess Stainless bead at the front. Mildly
arch the end of the channel to meet the top of the door channel
opening just behind the vent frame at the top and gradually
work your way rearward towards the curve. As you do this, the
channel will be moving upward out of the rear window run. This is
good. You may wish to assist it a bit by making sure the black
felt is sliding inside the stainless runs.
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When you get within 6 inches of the curve you can
use a large round piece of wood to work the curve into place. I
like a baseball bat as I can grab it at both ends to work the
channel into place. Once in place, I drill (3) 1/8" holes through
the channel and into the inner metal pieces (where the masking tape
is) and use pop rivets to hold it in place. Studebaker used these
weird clips and they are often deteriorated and don't work too
well being re-used.
5) Final Adjustments:
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Roll the window glass all the way down into the
door. You might need to loosen the 1/2" headed bolt that serves as
the lower window stop in the regulator. You can now install the 2
pieces of window fuzzy on the inside/outside of the lower door
glass opening.
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Roll the window up until it is level with the
opening where you would rest your arm. Pull the front rigid channel
rearward to tighten the window in it's channels and "snug" the 2
lower screws (that were left loose earlier). Slide the (1/2")
window "stop" up to the point it contacts the arm of the regulator
and tighten it to prevent lowering the window too far again. Roll
the window the rest of the way up to check it's fit and verify it
isn't hitting any rivet heads.
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